Huishan Ancient Town
On a weekend in March 2026, I revisited Huishan Ancient Town after five years. It looks completely different from how it was during the pandemic; it is now truly packed with crowds of people. The overall level of commercialization is now very high, offering a wide variety of chain fast food outlets, coffee and tea shops, and dessert options, alongside traditional snacks such as tofu pudding, xiaolongbao (soup dumplings), and youzanzi (fried dough twists).
Huishan Ancient Town is renowned as an “Open-Air History Museum.” Its most distinctive feature is the cluster of over 100 ancient ancestral halls from the Ming and Qing dynasties distributed along the river, representing more than 80 surnames. Entry to the ancient town itself is free, but separate tickets are required for Jichang Garden (a masterpiece of Ming dynasty classical gardens, famous for its borrowed scenery and rockeries, and a must-visit destination during Emperor Qianlong’s multiple tours of the South), the Second Spring Under Heaven (world-renowned after being rated by Lu Yu, the Sage of Tea of the Tang Dynasty; within the ancient town, one can also find the former residence and tomb of Abing, the composer of “Erquan Yingyue”), and the China Clay Figurine Museum (which showcases the exquisite craftsmanship and history of the national intangible cultural heritage known as “Huishan Clay Figurines”).
Since I had already visited Jichang Garden and the Second Spring Under Heaven on my previous trip, this time I only visited the China Clay Figurine Museum. In September 2011, Wuxi City established the China Clay Figurine Museum on the site of the former Huishan Clay Figurine Factory. Designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the museum houses clay sculpture works from various Chinese schools, including those from Beijing, Tianjin, Hebei, Shanxi, Guangdong, and Wuxi. It is currently the highest-standard clay sculpture-themed museum in China with the largest collection. Whether viewing the architecture or the clay figurines, the experience is quite enjoyable. Because there is a separate admission fee, there are not many visitors inside. The overall area is not large, and it takes about 30 to 40 minutes to tour.
The museum’s prized treasure is this Huishan clay figurine, the Great Afu.
Panlong Tiandi
Panlong Tiandi is an urban renewal project developed by Shui On Group, positioned as an “Urban Retreat.” It encompasses commercial streets, residential areas, hotels, and 230,000 square meters of public green space. Based on Shanghai’s 2014 “urban village” renovation pilot program, the project is guided by the core concepts of “Culture Awakening, Nature Integration, and Future Urban Renewal.” It has transformed the core area of the millennium-old Panlong Town, preserving cultural relic protection sites and historical buildings such as the Cheng Family Ancestral Hall. The plan includes a 3-kilometer circular trail, nearly 10,000 square meters of outdoor sports space, and water activity facilities, creating the “New Ten Scenes of Panlong” to revitalize the water town culture.
The history of Panlong Ancient Town dates back over 1,400 years to the Sui Dynasty, when it was a typical affluent Jiangnan water town. In 2008, the Shanghai Municipal Government officially designated Panlong Ancient Town as a Historical Conservation Area. However, prior to the renovation, the town had deteriorated into an “urban village,” plagued by unauthorized construction and river pollution, which severely damaged its historical character. In 2014, the Shanghai Municipal Government launched the “urban village” renovation pilot program, and Panlong Ancient Town was included in the first batch. That same year, Hong Kong-based Shui On Group undertook the development of the Panlong “urban village” project. The renovation project was approved in June 2018, and construction officially began in 2019. With a total investment of approximately RMB 14 billion, the project was implemented by Shanghai Panlong Tiandi Co., Ltd., a joint venture established by Shui On Group, West Hongqiao Company, and Xujing Assets. On April 29, 2023, Shanghai Panlong Tiandi officially opened. During the renovation, the project completed 30,000 square meters of river regulation and aquatic ecological restoration; restored multiple historical structures including the Cheng Family Ancestral Hall, Fenglai Bridge, and Xianghua Bridge; revived the ancient bridge culture of “Nine Dragons and One Phoenix”; and reinstated Panlong’s original cross-shaped street layout. After completion, the project covers a total area of over 500,000 square meters, comprising approximately 230,000 square meters of public green space, about 50,000 square meters of water town commercial streets, and roughly 250,000 square meters of the “Panlong International Community.”
Today, Panlong Tiandi can be described as extremely vibrant. The architecture, lighting, environment, and landscaping are all beautifully designed, complemented by well-equipped underground parking. You can think of it as a modern open-air shopping mall presented in the form of an ancient town. The advantage is its vast size, allowing for flexible placement of temporary structures, making the outdoors very comfortable during certain seasons. Of course, the disadvantage is equally obvious: the experience is heavily weather-dependent, making the outdoors quite uncomfortable in certain seasons… plus the maintenance costs are enormous. Overall, the tenant mix is excellent, featuring high-quality dining options and even an equestrian club. When the weather is pleasant, it is a wonderful place to explore.
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