Changsha Orange Isle + Yuelu Academy

These two places can be considered must-visit destinations in Changsha, and they are also the city’s most famous attractions.

Orange Isle

Let’s start with Orange Isle. Located in the middle of the Xiang River, it is a sandbar stretching about 5 km from south to north. It used to be inhabited by residents, but they were later relocated en masse, and the area was redeveloped into the Orange Isle Scenic Area. Speaking of this scenic spot, perhaps the most famous reference is the opening line of Mao Zedong’s poem “Qinyuanchun · Changsha”: ‘Standing alone in the cold autumn, as the Xiang River flows northward, at the head of Orange Isle.’ In fact, this place has been renowned for its tangerines since the Tang Dynasty. Many ancient buildings no longer exist, and today the area looks more like a large park.

Getting here is very convenient; Metro Line 2 goes directly to the island. However, the distance from the metro station to the head of Orange Isle is about 3.5 km. Therefore, although admission to the scenic area itself is free, many visitors choose to purchase a 20 RMB electric shuttle ticket for sightseeing. The electric shuttles have high capacity, operate on a one-way loop around the island, and allow passengers to disembark at any intermediate stop, though each ticket permits only one boarding. Visitors with ample time are advised to get off midway to explore other sights and take a stroll, while those on a tight schedule can simply ride straight to the head of Orange Isle and alight there.

On December 20, 2009, the Youth Mao Zedong Art Sculpture—32 meters high, 83 meters long, and 41 meters wide—was erected at the head of Orange Isle, becoming one of the newest viral check-in spots. Inside the sculpture is the Youth Mao Zedong Art Statue Exhibition Hall, where free tickets can be obtained by scanning your ID card. Admittedly, the riverside is also a great place for viewing the scenery, though it can get a bit sunny. Actually, when the weather is nice, it’s quite pleasant to come here for a walk.

Yuelu Academy

Yuelu Academy is also widely renowned—after all, it is the least controversial among the Four Great Academies. The academy is located at the foot of Yuelu Mountain, adjacent to Hunan University. You can exit at the Hunan University metro station and walk through the campus to reach it. However, if you drive, it can be somewhat inconvenient, as there is no parking available anywhere within the campus grounds…

Some of the older buildings on campus are quite attractive, but the university insists on claiming Yuelu Academy as its predecessor, and calling itself a ‘Millennium Academy’ feels a bit excessive. Of course, since they claim it as their own, the academy offers free admission to Hunan University faculty and students. Still, it feels a little odd to have a university situated right next to such a popular tourist attraction.

Although Yuelu Academy has a long history dating back to the Western Jin Dynasty, it suffered repeated devastation from wars over the centuries. Its buildings were damaged and rebuilt or restored many times; the most recent major renovation took place in 1981. After five years of extensive restoration, the academy reopened to the public in October 1986. The current structures were primarily restored from surviving Qing Dynasty architecture. The academy’s gardens cover a large area, and there is also a newly built Academy Museum that presents the histories of several important academies—it is well worth a visit.

Exiting through the rear gate of the academy and walking a short way up the mountain brings you to the famous Aiwan Pavilion. Originally built during the Qing Dynasty, the pavilion’s name is said to derive from a verse by Tang Dynasty poet Du Mu: ‘I stop my carriage, enchanted by the maple grove at dusk; frost-tinted leaves are redder than flowers in early spring.’ It was bombed and destroyed during the Second Sino-Japanese War and rebuilt in 1952; inside hangs a plaque inscribed by Mao Zedong at the time of reconstruction. Although this short stretch of path is quite scenic, it gets far too crowded… Also, on the return trip you cannot pass back through Yuelu Academy; you’ll need to take the road beside the academy to descend the mountain.

Photos in this post taken with a SONY A5100 + 16-50 f/3.5-5.6, post-processed in Lightroom.

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