Suzhou has a recorded history of over 4,000 years, and its officially recognized history as a city spans more than 5,000 years. It is one of the oldest existing cities in China and one of the birthplaces of Wu culture in the Jiangnan region.
Throughout history, Suzhou served as the capital of several small states during turbulent periods, such as the Sun regime in Jiangdong at the end of the Han Dynasty and the Zhang Shicheng regime at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. As early as the mid-Eastern Han Dynasty, it became the second-largest city in China after the capital Luoyang, and one of the top ten cities in the world. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Suzhou emerged as a vital national economic and cultural center. At that time, Suzhou, along with Yangzhou in the same province and Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong Province, formed the three major industrial and commercial metropolises in the country. With its thriving economy, the region was known as “the wealthiest under heaven” and ranked among the top ten cities globally.
On a spontaneous weekend whim, I decided not to drive but to take a high-speed train for a one-day trip to Suzhou to explore the old town. Actually, I left quite late and returned early, so it ended up being only about half a day~
Bao’en Temple Pagoda
Commonly known as Beisi Pagoda (North Temple Pagoda), Bao’en Temple Pagoda is just one subway stop from Suzhou Railway Station to Beisi Pagoda Station, making it extremely convenient to reach. Admission is free, though unfortunately, the pagoda is currently undergoing renovation.
During the Chuwu era of the Eastern Wu period in the Three Kingdoms, Sun Quan built the “Tongxuan Temple” to repay the nurturing grace of his mother, Lady Wu—though some accounts say it was for his wet nurse, née Chen. In the fourth year of the Zhongdatong era of the Liang Dynasty in the Southern Dynasties (532 AD), an eleven-story pagoda was constructed. In the 26th year of the Kaiyuan era of the Tang Dynasty (734 AD), Tongxuan Temple was renamed “Kaiyuan Temple.” In the third year of the Tongguang era of the Later Tang, Qian Liu, King of Wuyue, built another Kaiyuan Temple beside the Ruiguang Pagoda at Panmen Gate. During the Xiande era of the Later Zhou, Qian Liu moved the plaque of Bao’en Temple from Zhixing Mountain to the original site of Kaiyuan Temple, officially establishing the name Bao’en Temple.
The Bao’en Temple Pagoda was rebuilt during the Shaoxing era of the Southern Song Dynasty. Octagonal with nine stories, featuring a brick body and wooden eaves, it was a prominent landmark within Pingjiang (present-day Suzhou) during the Southern Song Dynasty, earning the title “The Premier Ancient Temple in the Wu Region.” In 2006, it was included in the sixth batch of Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level.
Suzhou Museum
Suzhou Museum was established on New Year’s Day, 1960. The museum complex consists of two sections: the eastern old wing, housed in the former residence of the Loyal Prince of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, and the western new wing, designed by renowned architect I.M. Pei and opened in 2006. Except for Mondays when it is closed, the museum offers free admission daily; however, advance reservations via the mini-program are required, and entry is based on your scheduled time slot. Located right next to the famous Humble Administrator’s Garden, it is within walking distance from Beisi Pagoda, making access very convenient. Inside, it is packed with visitors, and honestly, the architecture itself is far more impressive than the exhibits.
The Residence of the Loyal Prince of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom was the mansion of Li Xiucheng, the Loyal Prince, in Suzhou during the Taiping Rebellion. Construction began in 1860 upon the foundation of existing residences and gardens, but the project remained incomplete when Li Hongzhang led his troops to capture Suzhou in 1863. The residence changed hands several times afterward until it was designated as the home of the Suzhou Museum in 1960. The surviving architectural complex comprises three parallel axes, with the central axis retaining the original government office structures. In 1961, the residence was listed as a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level; however, due to the immense controversy sparked in the early 1960s by Li Xiucheng’s tens-of-thousands-word confession written while imprisoned, its protected status was revoked in 1964. In 1981, its designation as a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level was reinstated.
This site cannot be visited independently; you must book a reservation for the Suzhou Museum first, and only after touring the new wing can you proceed to this section.
Suzhou Imperial Kiln Gold Brick Museum
The Suzhou Imperial Kiln Gold Brick Museum is a 4A-rated tourist attraction that also offers free admission. Construction began in November 2013, and the museum opened on May 18, 2016. It was designed and built by Liu Jiakun, winner of this year’s Pritzker Architecture Prize, and its name was inscribed by Yu Qiuyu. The museum primarily consists of a main hall and a heritage park, featuring three exhibition halls. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Lumu Imperial Kiln Village produced gold bricks for the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace, and the imperial kiln ruins still exist today.
The overall architecture is quite distinctive, and both the main hall and the heritage park are visually appealing. However, the walk from the main gate down the central path is somewhat long. If taking a taxi, it is advisable to ask the driver to enter the premises and drop you off near the parking lot.
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