The highlight of this trip was the Kurobe Gorge Railway. I had originally planned to traverse the Tateyama Alpine Route as well, but the weather didn’t permit it. Fortunately, the Kurobe Gorge Railway is also considered part of the Tateyama area.
The Kurobe Gorge is a deep V-shaped valley formed by the upper to middle reaches of the Kurobe River, which originates near Mount Washibadake in the central Northern Alps. Spanning approximately 86 kilometers with an elevation difference of 3,000 meters, it is one of Japan’s few V-shaped valleys and has been selected as one of Japan’s Three Great Valleys and one of the Top 100 Hidden Spots in Japan.
Once an unvisited and undeveloped hidden gem, the Kurobe Gorge was deemed suitable for hydroelectric power generation due to its abundant rainfall and steep river terrain. In 1923, track-laying began for a railway intended to transport construction materials, which later evolved into a sightseeing trolley. Although the power development projects were extremely arduous, multiple power plants—including Yanagawara, Kurobe River No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4—were built upstream along the Kurobe River. Among them, the Kurobe River No. 4 Power Plant, known as “Kuroyon,” remains legendary today for its century-defining engineering feats. The trolley, originally used for hauling materials, later served as transportation for local residents before gradually transitioning to tourist use.
To develop tourism using the railway line, Kansai Electric Power established a wholly-owned subsidiary, the Kurobe Gorge Railway Company, in 1971. This company operates the 20.1-kilometer Kurobe Gorge Railway Main Line, which is one of the few railways in Japan still using a 762mm narrow gauge.
Since the trolley does not operate during snowy periods, its operating season generally runs from mid-to-late April through the end of November. Consequently, autumn is arguably the best time to experience the ride within this operational window.
The trolley serves more than just sightseeing purposes; passengers can board and alight at intermediate stations. There are five stations along the full route: Unazuki, Kurobe-Nagi, Nekomata, Kanetsuri, and Keyakidaira. However, due to the impact of the 2024 Noto Peninsula Earthquake, the trolley currently only operates between Unazuki and Nekomata before returning.
Getting to the trolley isn’t entirely straightforward. You can take the Toyama Chihō Railway Main Line directly from Toyama (about 1 hour and 45 minutes), or take the Shinkansen to Kurobe-Unazukionsen Station (approx. 12 minutes) and transfer to the Toyama Chihō Railway Main Line (approx. 30 minutes, totaling about 1 hour) to reach Unazukionsen Station. From there, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the trolley station.
It is recommended to purchase tickets in advance via the official website and exchange them at the ticket window before boarding. Trolley departures are infrequent, so be sure to check the schedule carefully. Additionally, pay close attention to both the outbound and return train schedules on the Toyama Chihō Railway Main Line, as trains are very scarce and cash is the only accepted payment method.
Right outside Unazukionsen Station, you’ll see a hot spring fountain built in 1973 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Unazuki Onsen. It draws water at approximately 60°C from the Kurobe-Nagi Hot Spring in the Kurobe Gorge. With Unazuki Onsen celebrating its centennial in 2023, seeing such a hot spring fountain is quite a rare treat.
The Kurobe Gorge Railway station is located approximately 300 meters from the Toyama Chihō Railway station.
There are two types of carriages to choose from. One is an open-air carriage without windows, seating four people per row, which is perfect for photography. If you want to take photos, be sure to sit on the right side during the outbound journey (or the left side on the return). The other option is a fully enclosed carriage with windows, available for an additional 500 yen. While slightly more comfortable, the glass is old and significantly scratched, often fogging up. Although advertised as having openable windows, they slide down from the top; keeping them open requires consideration for passengers behind you. If you’re serious about taking photos, the open-air carriage is definitely the better choice.
Next to the station, there’s a model of the trolley that looks great if photographed with a telephoto lens.
There are many Western tourists.
Boarding the train!
The Shin-Yamabiko Bridge is the first deep-red iron bridge crossed by the trolley departing from Unazuki Station. The bridge gets its name because the sound of the train echoes through the hot spring town like a mountain echo (yamabiko). Below it lies the Old Yamabiko Bridge, which is now open to pedestrians.
Shin-Yanagawara Power Station, styled like a European castle.
The scenery along the way is absolutely stunning, with colorful mountains and rivers resembling an oil painting.
Arriving at the current terminal, Nekomata Station, which is the only railway station in all of Japan whose name contains the kanji character for “cat.” The train stops here for 20 minutes, allowing passengers to get off and explore.
They’ve also built a rather unusual observation deck.
View from the observation deck.
You can photograph the train during the stopover.
After returning along the same route, there’s time to grab a meal and take some photos.
The station features a restaurant and a lounge on the second floor, offering excellent amenities.
Additionally, on the first floor of the Toyama Chihō Railway Main Line station, there’s a popular cheesecake shop called Alpen Cheesecake—it’s delicious and reasonably priced.
Nearby, there’s also the Kurobe River Electric Memorial Museum, which covers the history of hydroelectric development along the Kurobe River, the natural landscape of the Kurobe Gorge, and hydroelectric power generation. The museum displays waterwheel models and uses rare pre-war images and diagrams to convey the story of the monumental “Kuroyon” project. Admission is free, making it worth a visit if you have time. Adjacent to it is the SELENE Art Museum, which hosts a permanent exhibition titled “Kurobe Gorge Nihonga Exhibition,” featuring works by leading contemporary Japanese painters.
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