Datong Ancient City
If you are traveling to northern Shanxi, Datong is an unavoidable destination; if you are staying in Datong, a visit to the Ancient City is a must. The history of Datong Ancient City can be traced back to the Qin and Han dynasties, with the earliest recorded documents dating from the reign of Emperor Gaozu of Han. To defend against the Xiongnu, Emperor Gaozu extensively fortified the city at Pingcheng.
The main city of Datong Ancient City is enclosed by walls, with three smaller outer cities (East Small City, South Small City, and North Small City) located outside the east, south, and north walls respectively. The ancient city is known for its layout of “four main streets, eight small alleys, and seventy-two winding lanes”: the street network uses the cross-shaped main avenue as its skeleton, with the East-West Avenue as the horizontal axis and the North-South Avenue as the vertical axis, forming the primary road system; within the four corners, smaller streets intersect to form larger “wards” (fang), creating the secondary road system; these wards are further divided by a grid of small alleys, most of which connect in T-junctions, forming the tertiary branch road system.
Under the persistence of former Datong Mayor Geng Yanbo, more than 20,000 households were relocated, gradually transforming Datong Ancient City into a dedicated tourist attraction. While many structures inside are indeed newly built, the project has also revitalized genuine ancient architecture. Starting in 2008, Datong Municipality decided to fully implement a historical and cultural revival and ancient city protection project, leading to the restoration of the Ancient City. On the morning of November 18, 2016, the four sides of the Datong Ancient City wall were officially joined together.
Huayan Temple
Huayan Temple, designated as one of the first batch of Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level in 1961, was originally built in the seventh year of the Chongxi era of the Liao Dynasty (1038 AD). Named after the Buddhist classic Avatamsaka Sutra (Huayan Jing), it is one of the earliest and best-preserved Liao-Jin temple complexes existing in China, and also one of the three extant Liao Dynasty temples in the country.
The main buildings within the temple include the Mahavira Hall (Upper Temple) and the Bhagavat Sutra Hall (Lower Temple). The main hall of the Upper Temple is nine bays wide and five bays deep, making it the largest extant Buddhist hall from the Liao and Jin periods, and one of the largest preserved Buddhist halls in China. The Lower Temple houses a double-story carved wooden sutra repository, and behind the hall stands the Celestial Palace Pavilion attached to the wall, known as a “unique treasure in China,” possessing significant scientific and artistic value. Additionally, there are 31 Liao Dynasty statues enshrined in the hall, all of high artistic merit.
The Mahavira Hall is the main hall of the Upper Temple of Huayan Temple. It was originally built in the eighth year of the Qingning era of the Liao Dynasty (1062) and rebuilt in the third year of the Tianjuan era of the Jin Dynasty (1140), largely retaining the Liao Dynasty architectural style.
On the altar inside the hall stand statues of the Five Dhyani Buddhas; the central three are wood carvings, while the remaining two and other attendant bodhisattvas are clay sculptures. Flanking them are statues of the Twenty Devas, all relics from the Ming Dynasty. The surrounding walls are covered with murals, which are works from the Qing Dynasty.
Inside the Bhagavat Sutra Hall, 38 bays of double-story wooden wall cabinets are arranged around the perimeter. The lower level features a waisted Sumeru pedestal supporting sutra cabinets, which house over 1,700 cases of Buddhist scriptures from the Ming and Qing dynasties, totaling more than 18,000 volumes. Above the cabinets is a waist eave, upon which sit Buddhist niches with exterior railings, all topped with a roof utilizing as many as eighteen different types of dougong brackets. A middle waist eave platform supports an upper section adorned with wooden tiles, ridge beasts, and chiwen ornaments. The railings and panels are exquisitely carved with openwork designs. Between the rear eaves’ central bay and above the door lintel, an arch bridge and Celestial Palace pavilions are constructed. These wall cabinets follow strict regulations and represent the only perfectly preserved Liao Dynasty wall storage system extant in China. On the altar within the wall enclosure, 31 Liao Dynasty statues are displayed.
The thirty-one Liao Dynasty statues are arranged in three groups: the central group features Shakyamuni Buddha as the principal deity; the left group centers on Dipankara Buddha of the Past; and the right group focuses on Maitreya, the Future Buddha. All are considered rare treasures of extant Liao Dynasty painted sculpture art in China.
Among them, the most remarkable is an attendant Bodhisattva depicted with clasped hands and a toothy smile. With a slightly bare upper body, full figure, and flowing lines, the statue holds its hands together at the chest. Its lips curve into a gentle smile, revealing a row of white teeth. With the left foot slightly raised and weight shifted to the right leg, it was acclaimed by Zheng Zhenduo as the “Venus of the East.”
As for other structures within the scenic area, the side halls and wing rooms date from the Ming and Qing dynasties, while the Huayan Pagoda and Puguangming Hall are modern reconstructions. Overall, the environment inside the scenic area is quite pleasant. If there is a downside, it is that there are too many people taking portrait photos—it is indeed a rare temple where such photography is permitted. There are also two souvenir shops featuring different brands inside, both of which offer well-made creative products.
Additionally, not far outside the scenic area entrance lies a popular local restaurant—Fenglingge. Founded during the Zhengde era of the Ming Dynasty, it now operates multiple branches across Datong. This flagship location reportedly cost over 100 million yuan and took ten years to build; it even offers tour guide services. It serves excellent local specialties and is definitely worth a try. Furthermore, Datong Ancient City features an underground parking garage with direct access to the restaurant, making it very convenient.
Southeast Quarter
The Datong Southeast Quarter Historical and Cultural District, located in the southeast corner of Datong Ancient City, covers approximately one-eighth of the entire ancient city. It is an urban renewal landmark blending traditional courtyard homes with modern trendy businesses. The most upscale hotels and dining establishments in Datong are concentrated here; the only drawback is the lack of on-site parking, requiring visitors to use the public parking lot across the street.
While many cities have replanned their ancient towns from scratch, the Southeast Quarter preserves a street layout that gradually formed starting from the Northern Wei Dynasty. During the Northern Wei period, Datong served as the capital, Pingcheng, adopting the typical ward system (where residents lived in enclosed neighborhoods). Very few places in China today retain this urban structure so completely. The area occupied by the Southeast Quarter largely overlaps with the southeastern section of the outer city during the Northern Wei era, leading academics to dub it a “living fossil of the ward system.” Here, one can still observe the urban fabric of “four main streets, eight small alleys, and seventy-two winding lanes” that took shape during the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Taiping Tower marks its entrance. Located in the eastern part of Datong Ancient City at the intersection of Heyang Street and Taiping Street, it is one of the “Four Famous Towers” of the Ming Dynasty Datong Ancient City.
The overall atmosphere here is delightful, lacking the noise and clamor often found in trendy internet-famous ancient towns. It features independent bookstores, creative shops, art galleries, intangible cultural heritage experience cafes, as well as distinctive restaurants and guesthouses. Many of the courtyards themselves are historic buildings, offering a truly engaging experience.
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