I took a trip to Hangzhou during the May Day holiday this time. As it turned out, it’s really best to avoid visiting popular destinations like Hangzhou during the May Day holiday, especially West Lake…
This time, I stayed at the long-established Hangzhou Dragon Hotel. The Dragon Hotel opened back in 1988. Of course, they have been continuously renovating their rooms, but overall, the decor is relatively dated. However, given its prime location, choosing this hotel for a trip to Hangzhou is still very convenient.
Interior decoration of the Dragon Hotel
After leaving the Dragon Hotel, you can walk to Baoshi Mountain just by crossing the street. Baoshi Mountain is right next to West Lake, but if you want to get directly to the lake, you’ll need to hike over this mountain first. Nevertheless, visiting Baoshi Mountain as a standalone attraction is also a great idea, offering an elevated vantage point for a panoramic view of West Lake. Amazingly, during the May Day holiday, the back side of this mountain was almost completely deserted. Stepping inside, you find well-maintained stone steps and bamboo groves.
The rocks of Baoshi Mountain are a reddish-brown hue, embedded with many glistening red pebbles. When bathed in the glow of the rising or setting sun, they become exceptionally dazzling, as if countless gems were sparkling brilliantly—hence the name Baoshi (Precious Stone) Mountain.
From the mountain, you can also see the famous Baochu Pagoda. It was originally built by Wu Yanshuang, the Prime Minister of the Wuyue Kingdom during the Five Dynasties period, to pray for the safe return of King Qian Hongchu after he was summoned to the capital (Kaifeng). Of course, the existing structure was restored in 1933; it is solid and cannot be entered, so it can only be viewed from afar.
Climbing to the highest point, Hama Peak, offers views of the entire West Lake and Bai Causeway. However, the path here is somewhat rugged, so please be sure to watch your step and stay safe.
Descending from the mountain brings you to the former site of the Agate Temple, now the Lian Heng Memorial Hall. Originally founded in 946 (the third year of Kaiyun in the Later Jin dynasty of the Five Dynasties period), the existing structures were rebuilt between the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era. The complex consists mainly of front and rear courtyards. Along the central axis lie the three-bay Mountain Gate, a circular Moon Gate, the five-bay Main Hall (now ruins), and the five-bay Rear Hall, flanked by several wing rooms on the east and west sides. Adjacent to it is a garden, making it a quintessential example of Hangzhou’s temple gardens. Taiwanese historian Lian Heng lived here from 1926 to 1927, researching and compiling historical and literary materials. In December 2008, it opened to the public as the Lian Heng Memorial Hall.
Lian Heng Memorial Hall
Surprisingly, there’s a café here called Gu Gong You Xi. The ambiance is truly exquisite, though the prices are indeed on the higher side. Surprisingly, it’s even part of a chain, with another branch located at the Qianwang Shrine. The setting is delightfully antique, featuring small bridges over flowing streams, and the seating area is both spacious and plentiful. Ordering via QR code scan is very convenient. Best of all, there are very few customers here—it’s safe to say that during the May Day rush in Hangzhou, finding such a peaceful spot to rest your feet is a rare gem.
Then, heading towards the Broken Bridge, the crowds started getting thicker and thicker. Once we reached the Broken Bridge itself, it was absolutely overwhelming—you could barely squeeze through…
At Shaoniangong Square, there is a designated ride-hailing pickup point where you can catch a car straight to Southern Song Imperial Street and Hefang Street.
Southern Song Imperial Street served as the north-south central axis of Lin’an, the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty. Today known as Zhongshan Road, a section of it has been transformed into a pedestrian street featuring flowing water channels, giving it a distinctive charm. Major brand stores boast an antique aesthetic, and there are numerous bars as well. Compared to the adjacent Hefang Street, it is much quieter here.
During the May Day holiday, Hefang Street was truly packed with seas of people. Nowadays, brick-and-mortar retail competition is fierce, and the various businesses along Hefang Street pull out all the stops to attract customers. Every snack shop displays its products beautifully. There are also unique attractions like the Chocolate Museum and Zhu Bingren’s Jiangnan Copper House, creating a lively and bustling atmosphere. At night, when the lights come on, the street looks particularly stunning, complete with stilt-walking performances.
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